help on trying to fix my fender

Discussion in 'Car Cleaning & Detailing' started by rwhockey29, Apr 8, 2012.

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  1. Apr 8, 2012 #1

    rwhockey29

    rwhockey29

    rwhockey29

    Town Bicycle of Car Ownership

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    the audi i bought has had the rear quater panel/fender resprayed. one of the reasons it was so cheap. i do paint(technically gelcoat) restorations for a living so i have all the supplies and tool needed to work on the paint myself, but im looking for advice on products yall would use, grit, etc. most of the stuff we use on boats is 800-1200 grit compound, which is obviously way too abbrasive for a cars clear coat. im trying to get the pictures to upload to photobucket right now. you can physically feel the difference in the paint, from the smooth OEM paint, to the rougher feeling recoat. it almost lookins like the clear coat wasnt applied well? the color seems to match almost perfect, but it has a "haziness" to it when you look at it in the sunlight.

    i picked up some meguiars rubbing compound and polishing compound, going to try to start with that. any other ideas?
     
  2. Apr 8, 2012 #2

    rwhockey29

    rwhockey29

    rwhockey29

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    well photobucket isnt working for me right now so no pictures... whats a good grit to start with, 2000?
     
  3. Apr 10, 2012 #3

    rwhockey29

    rwhockey29

    rwhockey29

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    Here's what I'm working with. You should be able to tell around the wheel well where it's been resprayed.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  4. Apr 10, 2012 #4

    99veesixxer

    99veesixxer

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    i would honestly get ahold of audi get the paint code sand that bitch down re paint it and re clear coat it. just trying to get the clear coat off youll be worried about goin to rough and catchin the paint and not realizing it till you add the CC i would just strip it re shoot it and then re CC it. but thats just me

    maybe someone else will chime in
     
  5. Apr 10, 2012 #5

    rwhockey29

    rwhockey29

    rwhockey29

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    VAG clear coats are notoriously hard from what others have told me, I'm not too worried about burning through all the way. If I can't get it to clear up I'm going to just get it re shot, I'd rather not have to though.
     
  6. Apr 10, 2012 #6

    NIGHTSHADE

    NIGHTSHADE

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    Did you use oem rattle can or actual car paint? Spray cans never ever dry right due to no activator in it. Or if you used regular base/clear your clear coats too dry or does not have a decent amount of activator in it.
     
  7. Apr 10, 2012 #7

    XS

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    I'd just hit it with 3M heavy cut compound on a wool pad at roughly 700-800 rpm.
     
  8. Apr 10, 2012 #8

    rwhockey29

    rwhockey29

    rwhockey29

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    this is from the previous owner, and its actual paint. just the clear coat was not applied well(shady/cheap shop, go figure)

    i figured low speed. i actually stopped to pick up some 3m stuff today, and i couldnt find any. gonna try my luck with some meguiars medium grit and polishing compound i have laying around